The Beaujolais Nouveau is known to be a French tradition, but since a few years now, this tradition has spread out in various cities in the world and for a couple of years we have had the pleasure to notice that it also made it to Stockholm!
As the wine scene is getting more and more diversified and robust in the capital of Scandinavia, we can notice that wine bars in the city are offering Beaujolais Nouveau by the glass from the third Thursday of November. This year it all started on Thursday the 15th (as the French famous slogan says « Le Beaujolais nouveau est arrivé ! » which means it has arrived!) and we chose to go to two places to celebrate: the well-established 19 Glas in Gamla Stan and the newly opened farm-to-table restaurant Farm in Frihammen.
But first, what is the Beaujolais Nouveau tradition? It all started in the Beaujolais region of France near Lyon and was what we can call now a great marketing campaign! Selling a wine within the weeks of harvest was lucrative and the best way to compete with rival wine producers from the so-called Burgundy region. Today, bottles of the same year are opened throughout the whole of France and that is described as a wine party and the testing the first sip of the Beaujolais Nouveau is a special event in itself.
Opinions on Beaujolais Nouveau remain divided – some people claim that it is not a wine of their liking, if they are usually prone to like full-bodied and oaky wines. Others love the freshness and juiciness of such young wines especially, when made in respect of ‘honest’ wine-making. In this article, we will be focusing on natural Gamay, with as little human intervention as possible.
At 19 Glass, Beaujolais Nouveau 2018 was served from November 15th to November 19th. We tried the very good Beaujolais Nouveau from Rémi Dufaitre – definitely one to drink by the gallon and the one from Karim Vionnet which was also on offer by the glass.
At Farm, the experience was slightly different as we had a proper Beaujolais Nouveau party, trying different producers (Lilian & Sophie Bauchet, Jean-François Nicq, Renaud Bruyère) – and being able to order the same wine from different vintage was a great touch. Here one could for instance try the Jean Foillard Beaujolais Nouveau 2018, but also the 2014 and 2015. The 2018 was also released at Systembolaget on Thursday morning for the lucky ones as the production is also very limited.
By far one of the best gamay on earth
Pure juice ! Artois Poulsard Trousseau by Renaud Bruyère
October Les Foulards Rouges by Jean-François Nicq
And the very best for the end …evidence that natural wines age well ..
The restaurant is a nice minimalist space with a view on the owner’s brewery – no less! A guided tour of the brewery, for fans of craft beers, is very interesting to have too.
There was a special Beaujolais Nouveau food menu on offer – both the lamb and the rabbit terrine were delicious, alongside an interesting flat bread, a few vegetarian options and great dessert too.
Just off Slussen station, you will find this new bistrot with a beautiful bar setting , very welcoming marble bar to enjoy a glass of wine during these upcoming cold days .
A large variety of natural wine by the glass ( the wine list by the bottle is impressive) !
I tried 3 different one: one from France one from Germany and one from Austria – I have not been disappointed !
1/ Avis de vin fort 2016- Domaine Breton 2016
At the contrary of its name, this is not a strong wine- light refreshing cabernet franc ,quite oxidised and a little smoky , very little fruits, more minerals, really good to drink on its own.
Pierre Breton from the Loire Valley 2016
2/ Without All, 2015
My first Trolling, red berries, forest floor with mushrooms on the nose.
The taste is light, fruity, long finish, medium acidity and medium tanins .
Reminded me very much of the Polish wine Kvevri Botaurus .
Without All, 2015
3/ Grüner Vetliner by Martin and Anna Arndorfer from Austria
Beautiful unfiltered wine wine, round fruit on the nose, almost lactic with good leery yeast with a slight toasty caramel taste. Amazing to drink by itself late afternoon – very good discovery !
Amazing Grüner Vetliner
Haven’t tried to food at La Colline so can’t comment on that, but we will be back !
I have no words to describe how great the food in this down-to-earth tiny restaurant is: perfect cooking, taste, presentation and atmosphere . Great wine list.
Bonsoir- Bienvenue: a glass of orange wine to startUtopiste 2016 – restons nature
Then comes the time to choose your wine for your meal …
We shortlisted the following 4 : Two wines from Beaujolais : L’herbe folle and Très vieilles vignes 2009 J-A Bloc, one wine from Auvergne : La Bohème 2015 from Patrick Bouju and a wine from Loire valley called Ange from Domaine de l’Ecu.
Robust wine selectionAffordable price list
And the winner is .. from Beaujolais ..the extraordinary Gamay from Lilian & Sophie Bauchet – L’herbe folle !
Tasting note:
Funky on the nose ( exactly as I like it) , richly fruited on the palate, showing notes of cranberry jam that is quite lovely. Mild tannins. Rich acidity on the finish and that lovely lean cranberry note is here too. If it weren’t for that aroma this could be quite fantastic ( for some reasons the wine tends to taste too aromatic).
Carrot salad with raisin and bottarga – Bavette tartar with ricottaSlow cooked porkAmazing wine pairing experiencePasta cooked in tuna bones : definitely the hight of the diner
Who said that food needs to be complicated ? The simplest things are something the best.
As I mentioned Vivant is a very small restaurant with a marble bar where you can see the chef cooking just in front of you and a few tables behind:
One can’t go to Paris without having a crepe and a cider and in this place you can eat the best crepe of France !
A Provençale ( excellent!) and a Basquaise with biological cider
3/ Natural wine and couscous ! Yes the combo is great
We have been invited for lunch by my childhood friend who is an artist living in Paris
Art in the kitchen
Traditional Sunday couscous with a bottle of Gamay
Bottle of France Gonzalvez 2015 bought from the caviste The wine list on Boulevard Beaumarchais at 16euros.
4/ Best natural wines cellars in Paris
Now if like me you live in Sweden where alcohol is regulated by the state through the monopoly and if that monopoly cannot provide you with natural wine then you have no other choice then have a checked in luggage and buy your own wine !
Here is my selection ( or at least what my luggage’s space allowed me to get) :
The wine list : 26 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris, France
The sommelier is a big fan of natural wine and the owner is really personable , we visited him twice and he opened wines for us to try – he said he opens 10 bottles per day so he knows what his sommelier select ! Great selection – different price
La dernière goutte : 6 Rue de Bourbon le Château, 75006 Paris, France
Big selection of natural wines from the big names ( Bobbinet, Folliard, Matassa etc ) and non natural wines from great producer ( LaCroix Vanel) . Very good price for the location ( near Rue de Seine and Boulevard St Germain )
Ma Cave Fleury : 177 Rue St Denis, 75002 Paris, France
Unfortunately it was closed when we were there , which is the issue with Paris many natural wine bars and stores are closed on the weekend .
Colourful façade on this parallel of Rue Montorgueil
La Cave des papilles :35 Rue Daguerre, 75014 Paris, France
This is what we bought most of our orange and most funky wine – it is not far from the new Cartier Fondation, and in the neighbourhood where Simone de Beauvoir lived . A bit out of the way so not sure this can be my regular cellar . Found prices were too high and not reflecting the area
Here is my personal selection : stay tuned for the next article where I will tell you if these were worth it !
Finishing this article by what should have been the start: where to eat the best croissants in Paris :
I was sceptical at first but then I have to say that the croissant of La Maison Plisson ( website) were excellent ! Take away or eat in , I recommend this place !
Start your early night with the best tacos in town, a few (excellent) Marguerites together with some IPAs ( Sierra Nevada) -the best combo for Mexican food .
Then head to Casa Cruz which is nested in a beautiful Victorian building in the heart of Notting Hill on the border with Holland Park.Stop here for a drink or two and request a table at the terasse – it is so well done , you forget you are in a city, it feels like in someone’s garden with views on Notting Hill rooftops – ever so dreamy !
Head to E&O to end the night with a few cocktails and to be seen !
Saturday:
Start your day at the Notting Hill new vegan stop : Farmacy
Farmacy spreading some green on Westbourne GroveFarmacy bar
Eggs Florentine, Avocado side dish, yummy cacao smoothie
I can’t recommend this place enough , from the lay out it feels like you ended up in a tropical garden, very airy space due to the high ceiling and big windows, with bamboo and wood throughout, banana and palm trees, a bar in the middle, experienced staff and super yummy food . They offer drinks like Tumeric latte ( approved !), alongside Macha latte, the menu is short and great, you can have your eggs florentine , or pancakes here , like in any favorite brunch places but everything is organic and vegan – I highly recommend this place for both vegan and non vegan people ( like myself ) you will be surprised !
A first wine stop in Chelsea at Pavilion Wine on the pedestrian Pavillon road , they have a good selection of wines to take away and to drink in , bear in mind that they are more of a wine store which offer tasting events so the price will differ considerately if you want to drink your wine in their terrasse. They also offer a few natural wines ( in bottles only ).
A summer drink in Chelsea
After that, jump in the circle or district line all the way to Embankment , and walk your way up to Strand to reach Terroirs , I can’t come back to London without stopping here, my favorite wine spot ever !
Here indulge trying different wines by the glass and don’t hesitate to ask – the terrine is also a must !
Have an afternoon aperitif on a wine barrel !Ageno 2010 by La Stoppa- The orange wine at its best !
After that, jump again in the tube this time take the barkerloo line from Charing Cross all the way to Baker Street and have a wonderful walk far from the tourist big street near Madame Tussauds , take the Chiltern Street and get lost in Marylebone Village.
Pass the iconic Chiltern Firehouse until you get to this lovely new wine spot called Clarette, here is the only place in London you can try a Chateau Margaux by the glass, price ranging from 19 pounds the glass for a Chateau Margaux 2009 to 100 pounds the glass for the 1999 vintage.
Clarette, menu.
The bar is beautiful from the outside, as it is built in English Tudor style architecture type, similar to the Liberty’s of London facade or the hut located in Soho Square . The service is “too French” for me , as in too dry and not warm or genuine enough but the location and the drink will make you forget the service.
Clarette, in the middle of Marylebone village
The location is ideal, sit outside while savouring your exceptional glass of wine and relax people watching .
The bar is just opposite a very good Indian restaurant called Trishna, which has a Michelin star since 2012. We couldn’t make it as reservations are needed for such a treat.
Hidden little park on the way to the Indian restaurant
However, we went to another Indian restaurant The Rajdoot as eating indian is a must when one visits London, and it was very satisfactory. We had the chance to find spontaneously a place outside and we could enjoy the views and the food .
Messy plates like a real Indian street food restaurant should be !
Sunday :
Wake up to a beautiful morning at Colombia Road Flower market , wonder around and stop for a coffee when you can . When you got all the flowers you needed, head to Hackney Road for a yummy and unpretentious brunch at Long White Cloud in the heart of Hoxton at 151 Hackney Rd, very good food and very well priced !
SunflowersColourful morningEast London, or where contrasts meet
After a beautiful morning, jump in a bus all the way to St Paul’s where you can cross the Thames using the magnificent Millenium bridge until you reach the Tate Modern. I have been fortunate enough to be there for the biggest retrospective of Giacometti in London since 1965. It is very much worth the visit and it is taking place in the old aisle of the Tate.
Grandiose Giacometti- Tate Modern 2017The smallest Giacometti’s sculpture I ever seen !
After filling your eyes with beautiful Art carrying to Soho for an afternoon glass of wine. Bear in mind that most of London’s wine bars are closed on Sunday.
Summer in London- walking up to Neal’s Yard
The only I found to be opened was La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels by Neal’s yard . They have a good selection by the bottle and quite limited one by the glass to my taste but it was still refreshing to pay them a visit.
Nice wine to reflect on the afternoon Art on displaySoho Square with its Tudor style little hut and marble sculpture
Then head to China town for some Sunday Dim Sum , the best day to experience Chinese dumplings is definitely on Sundays !
Walk then to Firth Street in the heart of Soho for a pisco sour at Ceviche , sit at the bar and enjoy watching the bartender preparing your pisco sour in front of you .
Firth Street- views on Koya ( best Udon restaurant in London)
The head back East from Tottenham Court road newly refurbished station to Bethnal Green , which is getting hyper and hyper with the years . Go to Sager and Wilde on the hidden Paradise Row , the place changed name , it used to be called Mission, where the focus was on Californian wines but the owners who are the same , quickly realised that natural wines were more popular than Californian ones . You can also visit their initial branch on Hackney Road . Great wine and food here ! I love this place !
Sager and Wilde outside areaVery good selection of wine by the glass
Head to Kingsland Road for some Vietnamese dinner ! that’s the place to go for authentic viet .
If like me , you leave London via King’s Cross St Pancras International, I urge you to go a little earlier to be able to enjoy a wander around this amazing area which has undeniably transformed into the main London design hub. It is here that students from all over the world go to study at the famous St Martin College of Art and we now know why !
You can combine it with a stop at my favorite Japanese restaurant in London , Tajimatei
Back to cold but cosy Stockholm since a few days now , and my first post will be about my lovely dinner at Café Nizza in Stockholm ( http://www.cafenizza.se) – similarly to sister Babette restaurant on the other side of town, Café Nizza offers a low-key design and atmosphere , what I liked was the à la carte menu , there is nothing to choose , and you let the food choose you ! unless you eat at the bar ( very nice too ) , here everyday the menu is different and for me it is a plus and sign of freshness.
Here is the menu we enjoyed , after a complementary courgette soup:
Burrata with artichoke and bottarga
Crispy Cod on the skin with grapes and goats cheese ( excellent ! )
Vanilla panna cotta with blood orange and pistachio
Overall I would say the food offered is well balance, well proportioned and most importantly extremely fresh ; tasty yet on the healthy note and you know that by waking up rather fresh in the morning (which is unfortunately not the case when I dine outside most of the time ) .
The wine I enjoyed was a 2015 Riesling from Slovakia for my starters ( please see wine list attached) and the Syrah of Hervé Souhaut for my mains – for me an excellent wine list by the glass .
After 10 years living in London, here is where I went to eat during my first visit back to this city I know inside out :
Below, I am providing a food guide for 4 days in London :
1/ Breakfast at Lansdowne Club in Mayfair ( https://www.lansdowneclub.com)
Egg benedict at its bestTexture- Art Deco
Obviously this is a member club only ,but surpringly this is where I had the best English Egg benedicts for a very long time, awesome to have a quiet breakfast in an Art deco room, surrounded by interesting personages , enjoying calm and great services- highly recommended !
2/ A taste of Japan for lunch : Tajimatei ( no website , genuine japanese food in Chancery Lane) do not hesitate to order the lunch menu , great variety of sushi nigiri and sashimi ( toro, yellowtail, maquerel, salmon ) , and a miso soup – all for 18 pounds – truly a bargain for this quality !
3/ Korean food : Asadal (http://asadal.co.uk) : do not trust the google notes or reviews , this is truly the best Korean food in London
Same delicious food over the year , run by the same family , very reasonable price , excellent bulgogi barbecue ( in the evening only ) , kimchi , pork dumplings
4/Terrois (http://terroirswinebar.com) I know I wrote a post about Terrois already but I cannot emphasis how much I value and love this place , for its great variety of wines by the glass, to its excellent terrine , to its atmosphere and personable service – AHH I missed this place so much !
Wine tasted (and enjoyed !) this time skin macerated wine Sancho Panza from Italy ( see wine list in photo) and the excellent Syrah “Octobre” by Domaine des Foulards Rouges 2016
wine by the glassbest terrine on earth !the bottle we tried
5/ Barrafina ( http://www.barrafina.co.uk) same here, I have already reviewed this restaurant ( the Charing Cross branch ) and this time, I went to the Soho branch – same food, same quality, perhaps more on the noisier side ( or perhaps it is my feeling after having isolated myself in Stockholm and London which results in being more sensitive to noise !) regardless the food is great, not sure about the super healthy aspect of things though as the menu has a lot of fried things to me , but deliciously made , mostly in front of you as the sitting is only at the bar ! Same wine list – no change on that . This time I had a excellent Priorat – all night !
6/Afternoon cocktail at the Claridges hotel Art deco bar ( http://www.claridges.co.uk/mayfair-restaurants-bars/bars/claridges-bar/)
Best place to have a Dry martini , James Bond way ( shaken not stirred ) followed by a Bloody Mary !
Best dry Martini in townAmazing B&W photo galleryBloody Mary
This place remains one of my favorite place in Notting Hill, unpretentious and always the same with a dreamy kitch British design , nothing like the Oak to feel the London vibes again !
Woodstockholm, the highlight of this post – everything about this relatively small place is perfect, the monty theme ( I reckon we are in the middle of the Aphrodisiac menu of May..you lucky foodies 😉 ) – people would say the food is rustic ..and I would say the food is typical the closest food you can get in restaurant that feels and tastes like homemade food with a touch of sophistication that you can’t achieve at home. Voila.
And as if the changing themes and the wonderful and authentic flavours were not enough..here you can drink proper natural wines…and of course the service is top-notch !
So for me, it is a win and I have tried it twice- spot-on.
@woodstockholmAnd I will be back in June with more details and photossssss, Yes !
woodstockholm.com
The other restaurant to highlight for today is Delikatessen Bistro bar ..a french bistro which is not your typical , classic boring French brasserie but just a French restaurant which serves tasty,well-balanced food , with a twist. Both starters and mains were outstanding, fish, meat and desert succulent- Bravo for this yummy food in an airy and bright setting .
I also heard that they are also now distributing natural wines – mais que demande le people ? Keep it up guys and see you soon in June !
The bar of the restaurant, Bar Hommage, is worth a visit, talented barmaid on the mix – really good cocktail list and a very good pisco sour ! @barhommage
Greatly disappointing , this Bethnal Green restaurant has indeed good google reviews but when it comes to try it I am not so sure who rated it..Pretentiously overpriced , the food here does not taste much despite an effort of presentation – what you get in your plate will not make you smile . The service is amateur and the menu not inspiring and tasteful at all . Sadly not at the level of our expectations- I will personally not recommend this place to anyone.
Here is our menu dated September 16, 2015 : This was not good . Wrong mix of ingredients and spice. No “mouth explosion” here, very dull , neutral taste. This chef has not succeeded transporting us for the night with new senses and flavours. Shame.
The wine we have selected was decent – a Birgit Braunstein Pinot.
Our 75 pounds per person menuThe restaurant scene with views on the kitchen
tongue&cheeks 