Cape Town: The Mother City

The ultimate ( and very humble) guide for 10 amazing days in Cape Town is ready for you .

Here you will find some guidance about where to stay, what to do, what to avoid, the must-sees and dos , based on a couple vacation in December.

1/ Where to stay :

Clifton beach : If you are looking for peace and tranquility , amazing ocean views and be close to everything this exciting city has to offer – this is the neighbourhood for you.

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Best sunsets are also seen from Clifton beach:

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I would personally avoid Camps Bay which can get very busy and noisy, with lots of traffic and people.

Waterkant : if like us you have a late overnight flight, I would advise you to spend the last night in Waterkant which is the perfect base  to have a lovely” city break” day before flying ( beautiful walks, leaving the car behind, a museum stroll for instance) and offer amazing views of the Table Mountain .

2/ What to do :

-Being active 

As you know, the Atlantic sea is cold and unless you are on the Indian ocean side of South Africa, swimming can be challenging as the water is around 4/5 degrees in the summer time. So a dip in the ocean can be super fun and a challenge for many- you can still paddle , use a surf board to play with the waves, or just have sunbathes .

Cape Town offers many amazing hiking trails , as well as climbing .

The ones I did : Lions Head , Table Mountain which I advise you hike to the top and then take the cable car down.

But the very best hike I recommend is spending the whole day or two days with an overnight stay at the Cape of Good Hope National Park by Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope but also visit Kirstenbosh National Botanical Gardens,the tree canopy is an absolute must see

 

-Wine tastings : Visit the vineyards of Stellenbosch , Franschhoek and Swartland 

In Stellenbosh , I absolutely recommend to visit the Babylonstoren estate and have lunch at Babel (reservations required)and a visit of their back ( secret) medicinal garden, a real sacred place.

My second suggestion in Stellenbosh , is the Mullineux and Leeu wine estate: a peaceful vineyard and hotel ( with a great restaurant) completely away from the beaten track . Honest wines, art , sculpture and great hospitality.  Absolute HEAVEN !

Haven’t had the chance to visit Swartland , unfortunately as it is the place where the so-called Swartland Revolution wine producers are. Next time for sure !

Art : visit the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa – recently opened in september 2017

Architecture delight , in my opinion competing with the biggest museums out there : a marvel of shape , form , views and upcoming new young Contemporary African artists .

 Kudzanai Chiurai was a great discovery . I loved the fact that curators’offices were incorporated in the museum itself , first time I see that, you can see the people behind the exhibitions during their day-to-day at the museum – awesome !

– Restaurant scene in Cape town:

*Breakfast spots : Cape town is, as any modern cities, following the big healthy , organic trend

A big favorite is the Kauai (“Naturally”) , although it is a chain, it offers fantastic healthy breakfast and smoothies options ( both in Camps Bay and on Kloof Street )

In Sea Point, I loved going to Scheckter’s RAW Gourmet, with great and sometimes weird but tasty vegan options.

Another option , just opposite Raw, is Kleinsky’s Delicatessen if you are fan of Jewish food and like pastramis and bagels.

*Dining :One thing to know is that restaurants and bars close early in Cape Town- kitchens close around 9pm ( sometimes even earlier) and bars/clubs at 2am . Also, most of best restaurants in town, especially during the high season, require advance booking.

For me the best diner experience I had in Cape Town was in Constantia ( a must see neighbourhood with its scenic views and vineyards ) at Chefs Warehouse at Beau Constantia . This lovely restaurant does not require advance booking which came handy. The views are magnificent, the service knowledgeable, and food very good. Only Beau wines available here , which is a shame for natural wine seekers like myself .

Another very good experience was at Ash on Church Street, which shares the same floor space than the wine bar Publik, which offers the best wine options in town . The food at Ash was very satisfactory , and again if you come a little early, the staff which is very nice, will try to help you with a table if you don’t have a booking.

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For vegetarians or fish lovers, I recommence Sea Breeze Fish and Shell on Bree Street, love the outdoor area and the secret Rum bar at the back !

For Japanese food, try Shio in Waterkant which offers excellent japanase food with a twist.

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*Inside of the Cape of Good Hope National Park, I highly recommend having lunch at the restaurant there called Two Oceans , although touristy, it serves delicious food and great service:

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*Bars : outside of the famous Silo Rooftop bar , I highly recommend The Gin Bar, secret entrance through a chocolate store called the Honest Chocolate café  , it’s a great place to go before in the late afternoon and stay in the lovely courtyard or late at night in the intimate bar as the bar remains open late although the door is closed 😉 best speak easy bar I have been for a long time, great selection of gins and a great great music !!

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Another good bar is at Kloof House on Kloof Street,it has a nice courtyard garden nested in this old colonial house, and a both a restaurant and a bar. The food is basic but the atmosphere is cool .

*Another institution to visit during your stay is the Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel , build in 1899 in English Colonial Style, an afternoon (ice) tea in its beautiful garden with views on the Table Mountain is worth a visit

Can’t end this post without talking about the nature and wild nature found in Cape Town – from Elephants, to Lions but also African Penguins !

 

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Thank you Cape Town for a fabulous holiday – until next time !

A weekend in London : how to flow from West to East London !

This mini guide is for anyone visiting London this summer 2017 or beyond !

Friday :

Taqueria in Notting Hill !

Start your early night with the best tacos in town, a few (excellent) Marguerites together with some IPAs ( Sierra Nevada) -the best combo for Mexican food .

Then head to Casa Cruz which is nested in a beautiful Victorian building in the heart of Notting Hill on the border with Holland Park.Stop here for a drink or two and request a table at the terasse – it is so well done , you forget you are in a city, it feels like in someone’s garden with views on Notting Hill rooftops – ever so dreamy !

Head to E&O to end the night with a few cocktails and to be seen !

Saturday:

Start your day at the Notting Hill new vegan stop : Farmacy

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Farmacy spreading some green on Westbourne Grove
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Farmacy bar

 

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Eggs Florentine, Avocado side dish, yummy cacao smoothie

I can’t recommend this place enough , from the lay out  it feels like you ended up in a tropical garden, very airy space due to the high ceiling and big windows, with bamboo and wood throughout, banana and palm trees, a bar in the middle, experienced staff and super yummy food . They offer drinks like Tumeric latte ( approved !), alongside Macha latte, the menu is short and great, you can have your eggs florentine , or pancakes here , like in any favorite brunch places but everything is organic and vegan – I highly recommend this place for both vegan and non vegan people ( like myself ) you will be surprised !

A first wine stop in Chelsea at Pavilion Wine on the pedestrian Pavillon road , they have a good selection of wines to take away and to drink in , bear in mind that they are more of a wine store which offer tasting events so the price will differ considerately if you want to drink your wine in their terrasse. They also offer a few natural wines ( in bottles only ).

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A summer drink in Chelsea

After that, jump in the circle or district line all the way to Embankment , and walk your way up to Strand to reach Terroirs , I can’t come back to London without stopping here, my favorite wine spot ever !

Here indulge trying different wines by the glass and don’t hesitate to ask – the terrine is also a must !

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Have an afternoon aperitif on a wine barrel !
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Ageno 2010 by La Stoppa- The orange wine at its best !

After that, jump again in the tube this time take the barkerloo line from Charing Cross all the way to Baker Street and have a wonderful walk far from the tourist big street near Madame Tussauds , take the Chiltern Street and get lost in Marylebone Village.

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Pass the iconic Chiltern Firehouse until you get to this lovely new wine spot called Clarette, here is the only place in London you can try a Chateau Margaux by the glass, price ranging from 19 pounds the glass for a Chateau Margaux 2009 to 100 pounds the glass for the 1999 vintage.

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Clarette, menu.

The bar is beautiful from the outside, as it is built in English Tudor style architecture type, similar to the Liberty’s of London facade or the hut located in Soho Square . The service is “too French” for me , as in too dry and not warm or genuine enough but the location and the drink will make you forget the service.

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Clarette, in the middle of Marylebone village

The location is ideal, sit outside while savouring your exceptional glass of wine and relax people watching .

 

 

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The bar is just opposite a very good Indian restaurant called Trishna, which has a Michelin star since 2012. We couldn’t make it as reservations are needed for such a treat.

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Hidden little park on the way to the Indian restaurant

However, we went to another Indian restaurant The Rajdoot as eating indian is a must when one visits London, and it was very satisfactory. We had the chance to find spontaneously a place outside and we could enjoy the views and the food .

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Messy plates like a real Indian street food restaurant should be !

Sunday :

Wake up to a beautiful morning at Colombia Road Flower market , wonder around and stop for a coffee when you can . When you got all the flowers you needed, head to Hackney Road for a yummy and unpretentious brunch at Long White Cloud in the heart of Hoxton at 151 Hackney Rd, very good food and very well priced !

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Sunflowers
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Colourful morning
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East London, or where contrasts meet

After a beautiful morning, jump in a bus all the way to St Paul’s where you can cross the Thames using the magnificent Millenium bridge until you reach the Tate Modern. I have been fortunate enough to be there for the biggest retrospective of Giacometti in London since 1965. It is very much worth the visit and it is taking place in the old aisle of the Tate.

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Grandiose Giacometti- Tate Modern 2017
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The smallest Giacometti’s sculpture I ever seen !

After filling your eyes with beautiful Art carrying to Soho for an afternoon glass of wine. Bear in mind that most of London’s wine bars are closed on Sunday.

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Summer in London- walking up to Neal’s Yard

The only I found to be opened was La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels  by Neal’s yard . They have a good selection by the bottle and quite limited one by the glass to my taste but it was still refreshing to pay them a visit.

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Nice wine to reflect on the afternoon Art on display
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Soho Square with its Tudor style little hut and marble sculpture

Then head to China town for some Sunday Dim Sum , the best day to experience Chinese dumplings is definitely on Sundays !

Walk then to Firth Street in the heart of Soho for a pisco sour at Ceviche , sit at the bar and enjoy watching the bartender preparing your pisco sour in front of you .

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Firth Street- views on Koya ( best Udon restaurant in London)

The head back East from Tottenham Court road newly refurbished station to Bethnal Green , which is getting hyper and hyper with the years . Go to Sager and Wilde on the hidden Paradise Row , the place changed name , it used to be called Mission, where the focus was on Californian wines but the owners who are the same , quickly realised that natural wines were more popular than Californian ones . You can also visit their initial branch on Hackney Road . Great wine and food here ! I love this place !

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Sager and Wilde outside area
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Very good selection of wine by the glass

Head to Kingsland Road for some Vietnamese dinner ! that’s the place to go for authentic viet .

If like me , you leave London via King’s Cross St Pancras International, I urge you to go a little earlier to be able to enjoy a wander around this amazing area which has undeniably transformed into the main London design hub. It is here that students from all over the world go to study at the famous St Martin College of Art and we now know why !

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You can combine it with a stop at my favorite Japanese restaurant in London , Tajimatei

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Fancy a Chirachi for lunch ?

 

Until next time London ! x